Strange Town: The strange case of Porto Cristo’s name

The question as to the correct usage of local place names is rarely a case of being correct or incorrect, simply (simply!?) a case of Catalan versus Castellano. Hence, one has Port de Pollença versus Puerto (de) Pollensa and Port d’Alcúdia versus Puerto (de) Alcúdia. Oh, that the usage should be this straightforward. Consider, if you will, the case of a resort on the east coast of Mallorca. It is commonly called Porto Cristo. Indeed, this is how pretty much everyone knows it. However, the correct name of the resort has been open to debate for years, and still is.

“The Diario” yesterday pointed out that there are five possibilities: Porto Cristo, Portocristo (all one word), Port de Manacor, Cala Manacor or Colònia de Nostra Senyora del Carme. You can also toss in a hyphenated Porto-Cristo, if you are inclined to do so.

Apparently, the original name was the Colònia mouthful one, so we should probably be grateful that there aren’t many batting for it to be reinstated. This took its name, one assumes, from the church in Manacor, so was the “colony” of the church. The port or cala of Manacor are obvious, or will be to those who know that Porto Cristo is Manacor’s resort, in the same way that Puerto Pollensa is Pollensa’s. So why isn’t it Port de Manacor (or Puerto de Manacor, if you prefer the Spanish)? For some reason it just fell out of common use, but this doesn’t explain how it came to be Porto Cristo.

There are other “portos” in Mallorca, and it is a word that has confused me. It is neither a Spanish nor a Catalan word. I have assumed that it came either from Portuguese or Italian. According to a professor at the university in Palma, Portocristo – one word – is an imitation of other portos on the island and is a “false” adaptation from the language of the Mozarabés, the Christians who lived among the Muslims during their reign in Spain (there are now only some 2000 families said to be Mozarabés).

None of this, however, gives an answer as to how the name came to be adopted, other than one arrived at for religious reasons, and gives rise to the confusion as to what the place really should be called and to competing linguistic, cultural and political opinions as to what it should be. Twelve years ago, the matter received adjudication – in the Balearics Supreme Court, believe it or not. And it reckoned that it should be Porto Cristo, with two words and not Portocristo. Notwithstanding the court’s decision, the confusion still exists, as does the debate.

More toplessness
The arguments over women removing their tops on beaches seem pretty daft, but they risk becoming an absurd diversion when there are matters of rather greater importance to be considered. As alluded to yesterday, they can be seen within the context of a far wider clash between conservative, Catholic Spain and today’s liberalism. There is another organisation which is strident in its calls for women to cover up. This is a far-right group called “Hazte Oír” (which translates as make yourself heard). It has handed in a petition to the Balearic Government, calling for there to be a ban. The petition does not seem to be that strong; it’s nothing on the scale of the petition that led to the bullfighting ban in Catalonia: some 700 families support the proposal, according to the report in “Ultima Hora”.

If you go to its website (and it is quite an impressive one), you will find a whole load on the usual suspects of subjects, abortion for example, and there is a headline for something termed “Playas Familiares 2010”. In this, exactly the same words as used by the family policy institute can be read. These bodies, one has to conclude, are all part of the same thing – a movement of the Catholic far right. The toplessness argument is petty, but there is something altogether more serious lurking.

Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

Shout To The Top (less)

There is a body called the “Instituto de Política Familiar” (institute of family policy). Family and policy – sounds like a euphemism for something of the right. And right is not wrong. This body is making a thing about the body. The female body. On the beach and by the pool. The president of the Balearics wing of the institute, Agustín Buades, would most unlikely be one to shout “get your tits out for the lads”. (And do excuse me for this lapse of taste.) Quite the contrary. He wants them covered up.

The institute reckons that topless sunbathing by women exceeds norms of decorum and that beaches and pools should be places for family use in conditions of “respect and protection of childhood”. The institute wants a ban on toplessness but is most unlikely to get its way. Thank God for that, albeit that God must surely play a role in its thinking. Not that it says it is a religious or indeed a politically-aligned body. Well, it would do.

Go for a trawl through Google and you will unearth a number of references to this institute. Unsurprisingly, the references crop up alongside themes such as homosexuality, abortion and the pill. It seems less than well-disposed to any of them. It may deny religious and political associations, but the words “Catholic” and “right” come swiftly to mind. Comments accompanying the article about the institute’s call for a ban in “The Diario” are revealing. They are invariably hostile and some invoke Opus Dei in connection with Buades.

Among the references in Google, you will come across one to an interview with the institute’s national president in a publication called “Arbil”, the name also of a pressure group for Catholic values, Spanishness and of course the family. The president says, in this interview, that he is in total agreement with the aims of the Arbil forum. On the home page of its website is a black bow under a photo of the dead president of Poland, Lech Kaczynski. Why would that be, do you suppose? Nothing to do with Kaczynski’s opposition to homosexuality presumably.

Topless sunbathing is commonplace. In the interests of research, I assessed the level of toplessness on the local beach yesterday afternoon. Commonplace but in the minority. What there was not was total kit-off. The institute may or may not be aware that, according to the Spanish naturist federation at any rate, kit-off is legal on any beach. (Not that I recommend you try putting this into practice.) I mention this, though, because some local councils have sought to outlaw nudism and have had to rescind any ban. Nudity, partial or total, is a question of personal liberty, a concept that doesn’t always sit easily with those of an outlook at the farther ends of the political spectrum – right and left.

The worry with this institute is that, as with other movements or politics that make the “family” its focus, the family is hijacked as a camouflage for an agenda that, while it may well be sincere in its promotion of family values (and there’s no reason to question this), may well have other aims. It, the institute, is clearly at odds with the liberalism of Spain under Zapatero, and bare breasts expose it – as it were – as being so. If it wants women to cover up, then maybe it should support the wearing of a burka. But it wouldn’t. You don’t get many burkas in Spanish families.

Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

Lie Back And Think Of … : Ban on sex advertising

So, the Spanish Government is planning to ban the advertising of sex for sale from newspapers. The government is almost certainly right to wish to do so, even if this sounds rather puritanical, a streak I am rarely inclined to display.

There is something of the bizarre about the pages of classifieds for call girls, “massage” and a smattering of rent boys that are to be found in mostly all newspapers locally. The two Spanish dailies in Mallorca have them, as do the nationals, including “El País”, which “The Guardian” points out is of a similar left-leaning nature to itself and thus, you would think, in the PC category, and also “ABC”, a paper with more than a hint of religious righteousness.

The government, though, is going to cause itself some problems. The newspaper proprietors are unlikely to take a ban lying down, either on their backs or in any other position you may care to imagine. “El País”, for example, is a natural ally of the Zapatero government, which can do with all the support it can muster at the moment. There is also a view that banning such advertising would be a curb on free speech, which may be a legitimate argument were it not for the censorious nature of the media when it comes to anything to do with the royal family; overstep the mark and it will land a journalist, or a cartoonist, in the dock before a beak. If the press was wishing to seek a free-speech battleground, this might well be it, and not sleazy ads for well-endowed females.

The sheer volume of these ads can be overwhelming. How much sex can actually be sold? Not enough where the papers are concerned, which already derive significant revenues from the advertising. The papers are also at pains to point out that if the government wants to stop the ads, it should make prostitution illegal. But this argument begins to move into rather murkier territory. Were it the case that the ads were just being placed by some local slapper, then there wouldn’t necessarily be much harm in it. However, though a punter calling an ad might indeed end up with the woman of his dreams as opposed to one who might once have appealed to Wayne Rooney, or worse still, looks like Rooney, between that punter and the bed sheets is usually a third-party; pimps of frequently overseas origin – Russian, Nigerian, South American. The anti-ad lobby argues that the ads represent a form of “slavery” for women caught up in the “industry” (and it might add, presumably, some men as well).

The government’s move to initiate a ban comes against a background of what seems like a growing willingness on the behalf of the police to move against some so-called “relax” or “alternative” clubs; prostitution may not be illegal, but exploitation and trafficking are. And there is a further dimension to this – the potential link to organised crime.

In one respect, the adverts reflect a rather reassuringly un-PC element in local society, but it is what lies behind the ads that the government (and police) are right to take an interest in. The papers may not like a ban, but they are probably going to have to learn to live without the income that prostitute advertising brings them.

* I acknowledge the source of some of the above from “The Guardian” – http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2010/jul/16/spain-sex-adverts-newspapers

Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

Thus Spake Zarathustra – The downfall of Mother Munar

Maria Antònia Munar, matriarch of the Unió Mallorquina party and of Mallorcan politics, has finally quit her post as speaker of the Balearics parliament. Her role in the so-called “caso maquillaje” (make-up) and the corruption allegations levelled at her have – belatedly – claimed her. She is accused, along with former tourism minister Miquel Nadal, of using an audiovisual company, Video U, to divert a quarter of a million euros of public funds for the purpose of financing the UM’s electoral campaigns. Her position had become untenable. The new code of politician ethics that had been introduced was meant to have led to resignations while investigations were ongoing. Munar had chosen to ignore this, until Friday.

While the case has still to be fully brought to court, the knives have already been sharpened. One does have to wonder as to what impact the press might have on any trial. So far there have only been declarations in front of the judge, though Munar has chosen her right to keep silent. Meanwhile, the outstanding “Diario” journalist, Matías Vallés, has – not for the first time – ripped a reputation to shreds. In yesterday’s paper, he headlined a piece about Munar thus: “The most hated woman in Mallorca’s history”. Headlined it thus, and then thus spake Zarathustra. Vallés quotes Munar from a previous time, when she governed in Mallorca alongside the discredited and under-investigation ex-president Jaume Matas of the Partido Popular. At that time she told her party that there was going to be “no-one accused of corruption”. With this, Vallés brands her Zarathustra. Nietzsche took the mythical character and made him “the first immoralist”. Perhaps Munar considered herself an “Übermensch”.

Vallés refers to Munar’s lack of principles and to her relationship with Nadal. “Her beloved dolphin” is how he describes the ex-minister and Munar’s anointed successor as party leader. He had previously called Nadal “ineffable”. In a twist to the saga, Nadal and three directors of Video U have protested their innocence and sought to finger Munar, a delicious story of Munar handing Nadal 300 grand in readies while in the official car of the president of the Council of Mallorca (which Munar once was) all adding to the sleaze.

The characterisation of Munar as a hated woman raises an issue in respect of women in Mallorcan politics, one that has resonance in wider Mallorcan society. Vallés also refers to Munar as Lady Diada, and one has to go back a bit to understand quite what he means; there is form when it comes to Vallés and Munar. The Diada name can just as easily be Lady MacBeth – feminine compassion supplanted by ambition and ruthlessness. Generalisations are always to be treated with care, but Munar’s style and demeanour are not unusual among Mallorcan women of a certain standing. It is in the Mallorcan character to exhibit a sense of superiority in any event, and for some women this can become aloofness that borders on the contemptuous. And to this can be added power lust and self-promotion. Vallés repeated yesterday some of what he said about Munar in December 2007. He mentions a magazine, paid for by the Council of Mallorca, which featured 87 photos of Munar on 83 pages. In another magazine, “Brisas”, published by the Diario’s competitor, the Serra group (“Ultima Hora” and “The Bulletin”), its VIP section was once full of photos of Munar in her finery. One couldn’t turn a page without her staring out at you. But she is not unique.

The German neighbours the other day raised what at first seemed a strange point, followed by a question. On Sundays, they had noticed women who wear furs, wandering around with noses firmly raised in the air. What was their standing, they asked. Initially I didn’t understand, until I remembered that in Germany status tends to be defined, not by class as it might be in Britain, but by profession, whether the husband’s or the woman’s. Talk to Germans, and their small talk is often littered with the adjective “beruflich” (professional). It matters to them. There wasn’t necessarily any such equivalent in Mallorca, I ventured. Just wealth. Or power. But they had identified a trait, one seemingly compatible with Munar. Aloof and contemptuous, not just of others – the Übermensch mentality perhaps, the triumphing by making enemies (as she has admitted) – but also of the rules. Munar has been brought down by alleged rule-bending and breaking and by a hubris that is symptomatic of a social stratum in Mallorca. Vallés has not necessarily made this point, but he has nevertheless given it potential currency. If you read the native, then I recommend you take a look at his article:

http://www.diariodemallorca.es/mallorca/2010/02/27/matias-valles-mujer-odiada-historia-mallorca/549053.html
Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.