The Train That Ran Away

“The runaway train went over the hill and she blew.” Fat chance. The train won’t be going near the hills of Artà any time soon. It has run away and hidden. Wagons for the Manacor-Artà line had already been bought. They are in storage, and they are likely to stay there.

Why, in the name of financial common sense, were wagons purchased before the line was anything like completed? Sure, it had been anticipated that the line might be ready this year (this was initially the plan), but the development, ever since it was embarked upon, has been only a sudden halt from ramming into the buffers.

Crisis has well and truly done for former President Antich’s “age of the train”, one that he announced on becoming president in 2007. First, the Alcúdia extension was scrapped, and now the Artà line, which had been intended to eventually go on to Cala Rajada, is paralysed. Whether it will ever be reactivated, who can tell.

The regional and central governments are bust. We know this. President Bauzá, desperate to reduce the Balearics massive debt, has ordered the freezing of projects. Central government has been only too happy to support him, by stating that it will not forward any more funds for the Artà line.

Something had to give. Clearly it had to. Boracic, the Balearics Government can’t afford to indulge in major projects. However, at the same time as the announcement was being made as to the halting of the Artà line, Vice-President Aguiló (and overseer of finance and business) was saying that the Palacio de Congresos in Palma was “fundamental in order to reactivate the Balearic economy”. It will continue to receive funding.

How is it fundamental? The palacio is essentially a conference centre, one designed in the hope of a strand of tourism – the business conference tourism market – becoming a significant part of Mallorca’s tourism mix. But on what evidence?

Plenty of other cities in Spain have similar palacios. Perhaps this was the impulse to create Palma’s. If others have got them, then so should we. It could indeed prove to be important in economic reactivation, but the suspicion is that it is a vanity project. It will be heralded, as such developments tend to be, as “iconic”. A railway line, on the other hand, wouldn’t merit such hyperbole. It is functional and presumably is not considered fundamental to anything.

Furthermore, the palacio couldn’t just be abandoned. Its structure exists. For it to not be finished would make for an appalling eyesore, which is what it might turn out to be anyway, uncomplementary as it will be to other Palma seaside architecture, the Cathedral for instance. It’s an easier option to crack on with the centre than it is with a railway line for which vast tracts of land – out of sight of Palma – have already been churned over, dug up and levelled.

The total cost of the Artà line is said to be 150 million euros. But there is a mystery about its funding. In 2009, 92 million euros were supposed to have been diverted from the abandoned Alcúdia project. What happened to them? In June, it was reported that 112 million euros for the Artà line were lacking.

Is the government so wrong, though, to have put a halt to the line? The mayors of towns which would have been connected, Sant Llorenç and Son Servera, believe so. One who doesn’t is Antoni Pastor, mayor of Manacor (Partido Popular). There again, Manacor already has the crucial connection – that to Palma. Moreover, Manacor’s resorts would not potentially have benefited. The line would have run close to Cala Millor, a resort that falls under two administrations – Sant Llorenç and Son Servera.

The Chamber of Commerce in Mallorca has come up with a telling finding. According to its own report, the volume of traffic that the line would have generated would have been roughly a third of that considered by the government to make it viable. This governmental figure appears to be one that the previous administration came up with. If the discrepancy is accurate, then why was the line ever contemplated?

However, the Artà line would have brought benefits other than those directly from passenger sales. The eastern part of the island needs development. Improved connections with Palma would have brought secondary benefits, hard though these might be to quantify.

Similarly though, there is a conference centre being built in Palma, the benefits of which have not been quantified. It goes ahead because of what it is and because of where it is. The train to Artà is in another world.

Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

The New Model Fiesta

The rumours had been circulating, and for once they proved to have substance. Puerto Pollensa’s summer fiesta of Virgen del Carmen will have neither a firework display nor a beach party. The fireworks that finish off Pollensa town’s Patrona fiesta in August are a likely further victim of the financial crisis at Pollensa town hall. What else? Will Cala San Vicente, treated as a sideshow anyway, have any sort of a fiesta this summer?

It comes as no great surprise, other than that it has taken till this year for reality to bite. The funding shortages have been there for ages. They existed B.C. (before crisis), but no one thought to do much about them, ever reliant on government funds or taking on extra debt that town halls are now forbidden from doing.

In 2009, cuts to fiesta budgets did start to come in. In Pollensa, for instance, there was supposed to have been a reduction of up to 25%. If there indeed was, and the main targets were said at the time to be the autumn and wine fairs rather than the fiestas, then it wasn’t necessarily obvious.

If there are to be cuts to the fiestas, and there have to be, then what should their priorities be, who should pay for them and who indeed should organise them? Is a firework display, for instance, a priority? It depends on how much it costs, and getting to that information isn’t always straightforward.

One town, Felanitx, cut its budget for fireworks by 2,000 euros in 2009, so that it cost 3,000 euros. My guess is that displays in resorts such as Can Picafort and Puerto Pollensa require a far larger wedge. Upwards probably of 10,000 euros. More possibly.

In itself, this doesn’t sound like a lot. In the context of this year’s budget for fiestas in Puerto Pollensa of 30,000 euros, then it is. But note that it is fiestas and not fiesta. The budget was for both Virgen del Carmen, now stripped of its fireworks and beach party, and the Feria del Mar and Sant Pere fiesta just gone. Yet, the main fiesta is Virgen del Carmen. Sant Pere may not cost a lot by comparison, but why didn’t they just scrap it? Why have two fiestas three weeks apart? And on the religious angle, Sant Pere, or rather his image, gets dragged out during the Virgen celebrations, so what’s the point of the earlier event?

The argument goes that the fiestas bring in tourists. I’m not convinced that they do, except those which occur out of season. There may be some tourists who book holidays expressly with the fiestas in mind, but how many is some? I’m sure no one has bothered to find out. But as there is so much entertainment being laid on, then maybe those who enjoy it, whether specifically attracted by fiestas or not, should contribute to the cost.

I don’t have a good suggestion as to how you would create a mechanism for doing so, but assuming one could be dreamt up and let’s say you have five thousand tourists knocking around, charge them all two euros a pop and bingo, there’s the cost of your fireworks covered. And while you’re at it, what about charging people from other towns? They don’t pay the local taxes.

If not tourists paying, then what about the private sector? In the town of Dos Hermanas in the province of Sevilla, business has come to the rescue of the fiesta firework display. Put such a suggestion to businesses in Puerto Pollensa, and it would probably go down like a lead balloon, given the poor relations with the town hall and gripes about services for which taxes are paid, but the involvement of the private sector is common enough in other countries. In the USA, for example, the money for fireworks at fairs typically comes not from local authorities but from fundraising and from business.

And then there is the issue of who organises the fiestas. There has been talk of local people in Puerto Pollensa trying to stage the missing ingredients to the Virgen fiesta. In Inca, they have already looked to involve the locals in fiesta organisation. As a general principle, were the local citizenship charged with doing the organising, were it given a grant by the town hall (lower obviously than what it would otherwise spend), then this would not only give the local population greater “ownership” of the fiestas, it would also bring about a mix of private-public funding.

Perhaps we have to accept that the fiestas got too lavish for their own good and that a return to a more basic fiesta becomes the norm; DJs playing dance music isn’t exactly traditional. Or perhaps we should now expect a different model for the fiestas, and one that isn’t dependent upon the public purse.

Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

The Party’s Over: Fiestas

The threat of cuts to fiesta programmes is becoming a reality. Pollensa town hall is considering scrapping the street party of the night of 1 August that runs on into the early hours of 2 August, the day of the Moors and Christians battle that is the climax to the town’s Patrona festivities.

Mayor Tomeu Cifre has said that something has to give. If not the street party, then other things would have to go, one possibility being the “marxa fresca” (the white party) that is normally held on the night before the street party.

You might ask what the difference is between these two parties. Both are, after all, held in the streets and squares of Pollensa. The marxa fresca is more an open-air disco in the Plaça Major, whereas the street party of 1 August involves three squares holding rock and dance music concerts. The cost alone of staging this street party, according to the mayor, is 40,000 euros; 40,000 euros the town hall simply hasn’t got.

The funding crisis for cultural events in Pollensa nearly claimed this year’s music festival. While the previous town hall administration was tardy, to blame it entirely for the disorganisation is unfair. The new tourism ministry has ridden to the music festival’s rescue in providing emergency funds, the ministry of the last government having blocked funding.

The town hall was short of nearly two hundred thousand euros for the music festival, money that had traditionally been forthcoming from the government. Though the new tourism minister, Carlos Delgado, has assured his support for the music festival, he has also made it perfectly clear that an examination of grants to events from the government is going to be undertaken – in an as objective fashion as possible. In other words, there can be no guarantee that the music festival, along with any other recipient of government cash, will be helped out so generously in future, if at all.

In the case of the music festival, why has the tourism ministry been helping to fund it? I raised the question before. What does it really do for tourism? Well, come on, what does it do? Anyone able to give a firm answer? I would very much doubt it. If any ministry should be putting its hands into its pockets, then it should be that for culture.

In terms of the economic resources directed towards fiestas or festivals and of the direct economic benefits from tourism, to justify funding in the name of tourism is sophistry.

In Pollensa the mayor has also said that the budget for this year’s fiestas, well down in any event on what is needed, will see 30,000 euros directed towards the fiestas in Puerto Pollensa, both the recent “feria del mar” and the upcoming Virgen del Carmen.

The town hall has 130,000 euros in all at its disposal. Patrona in the old town gets the lion’s share of the budget (100,000 euros), yet, with the exception of the Moors and Christians battle, Patrona doesn’t necessarily attract huge numbers of tourists. The events in the port, on the other hand, do, for the very good reason that this is where most of the tourists are to be found.

This underlines the fact that, for all the talk of fiestas as traditional events which appeal to tourists, tourists are not the primary target. They are events for the local population; as is the case with the music festival as well. There is nothing at all wrong with this, but, and despite the music festival being a different category of event to fiestas, Delgado is absolutely right to be taking a hard look at grants. If by doing so, he sends out a message to town halls that they need to apply greater realism, then he will have done a great service.

To come back to the street party, there is a further reason for its possibly being scrapped, and that is the problems it causes. Increasingly, it has become an excuse for an almighty great piss-up – a botellón – and the ambience is less than pleasant. Calls have been made, for instance, for people to desist from using the streets as toilets.

In Sa Pobla they dropped their own street party last year. Similar reasons were cited to those in Pollensa where there has been disquiet expressed as to the fact that the fiestas have lost their sense of tradition among young people and simply become the launch pad for drunkenness and misbehaviour. So, Pollensa town hall has more than one agenda when it comes to abandoning the street party, but overriding this is the fact that the fiestas have needed to be scrutinised more intensely. It’s a great shame that economic crisis has necessitated this, but it is long overdue.

Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

Losing Their Religion: Attitudes towards the Church

The Fundación Gadeso is probably an organisation you are unfamiliar with. But much of the information about social and economic issues in Mallorca comes from the foundation.

Gadeso (Gabinete de Estudios Sociales – office of social studies) was formed in 1975 and became a foundation in 2002. It has been an important source of monitoring social and economic activity since the collapse of the Franco regime. It is an uncontroversial organisation, but it does consider controversial issues, such as corruption. One of the few links from its website – http://www.gadeso.org – is to a blog called the observatory of corruption which lists everything that is currently happening in respect of corruption allegations in Mallorca.

Also on its website there is, at present, a reader poll inviting responses to the significance of Christmas. The possibilities range from a religious festival to signifying nothing. Gadeso has just undertaken a survey of religious attitudes in the Balearics. This survey, unsurprisingly enough, finds a divergence in opinion across age groups, but it is one, were attitudes not to change as Balearic youth enters adulthood, which highlights the waning dominance of Catholic religious orthodoxy: well under a half of those in the 16-20 age group say they are believers.

Religious belief is one thing, another is the attitude towards issues with a religious dimension. On every issue, a majority of the youth group agrees with divorce, sex outside marriage, passive euthanasia (meaning the refusal or withdrawal of treatment), gay marriage and adoption, and abortion. Only one of these issues, divorce, gets almost unanimous support across different age ranges, but there is a further, more obscure issue which receives very little support, regardless of age. A mere 27% of all those surveyed agree with the system of financing the Catholic Church.

In theory, the Church is meant to depend upon funding through the tax system, i.e. from a percentage of income tax that taxpayers opt to donate to the Church (0.7%). It does of course have sizable assets, being the second largest land and property owner after the state, but its, if you like, working capital comes from this percentage. Or does it?

As long ago as 1987, when the so-called “church tax” was introduced, the Church agreed to be self-financing within three years. It never happened. In 2006 the Zapatero administration announced, belatedly perhaps, that government subsidy of the Church would come to an end, but that the Church would benefit from an increase in the tax to the current level, so it was still not to be self-financing.

Another research organisation, the nationwide Europa Laica (Secular Europe), estimated last year that the Church receives, via different means, some six billion euros of funds from different governmental bodies. The organisation supplied a caveat to its estimate, owing to what was described as a lack of transparency on behalf of both the Church and the government. But its estimate included 3.8 billion euros for private schools that follow the national curriculum and which have Catholic religious education. It also included some 100 million euros that came from taxpayers who had opted not to pay the church tax but to divert the money for social and charitable purposes; there are a large number of Catholic charities. There was also the matter of some 900 million euros of lost tax income because of exemptions.

On this latter point, however, there may well now be a tightening of the tax noose. Three parish churches, those of Son Servera, Felanitx and Pollensa, were recently presented with a combined IVA (VAT) bill of 344,000 euros for building works, following a decision by the Balearics’ Supreme Court.

What this all suggests though is that, despite other confrontations with the Church, the Zapatero government hasn’t been as aggressive when it comes to funding. The implication of the Gadeso survey, however, is that perhaps it should have been. Whether it has the opportunity to be so in the future depends upon whether there is a future. The Partido Popular (PP) has vowed to turn back the secularism of Zapatero, and this may also include instituting a more favourable financial regime.

Though the Gadeso survey reveals differing attitudes among age groups, they show broad support for many of the government’s social policies in the Balearics and echo support elsewhere in Spain. Gadeso is important in that it acts as a barometer of attitudes. Politicians, especially those from the PP, might do well to take some notice of them.

Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

Surf’s Up

Things you can’t take to the beach – or shouldn’t, must not: pets (goldfish presumably not, but mainly dogs); camping gear, cooking devices; boats, kites for surfing, jet-skis, oil tankers, nuclear submarines – oh, and windsurf boards and sails. Or to clarify. Dogs are not irregular visitors to the beach, but no-one seems to much do anything about them; jet-skis, kitesurfs can be taken so long as they are in the “sports zones” or beaches set aside, such as – for kitesurfing – La Marina in Alcúdia and Es Comú in Playa de Muro. And also windsurfs. 

 

On the beach in Playa de Muro three windsurfers were making their way back to shore. A lifeguard was on patrol. The whistle went and there ensued much gesticulation, discussion and talking into his two-way by the lifeguard. Plod arrived. Plod on water. Plod on a jet-ski, carefully brought into shore without the engine in full blast. More discussion. 

 

Windsurfing, unlike jet-skis and kitesurfing is not particularly dangerous in terms of potential harm to other sea users. So long as there are not many of them and the windsurfer knows what he or she is doing. As soon as there are a load of them and those who don’t know what they’re doing, then there is the potential for harm. Hence, you cannot windsurf wherever takes your fancy. Them’s the rules. Except for those who believe that the rules are there for others. It is not a uniquely Spanish thing, but there is a definite trait that says rules are for others – this manifests itself in various ways, one of which is bringing the windsurf board, the jet-ski or the kite to the beaches where they shouldn’t be. Probably along with the dog as well. 

 

The kitesurfing that occurs at La Marina has become something of a sightseeing spot. When the wind is blowing, as it often does there, the skies are full of colour and of Charlie Browners performing mobes. It is a spectacle. But unfortunately it is also quite dangerous. Not because of the kitesurfing per se, but because of the rubber-neckers, the Charlie Browners (kitesurfers) themselves and those drivers who just suddenly stop. The road here is a blackspot, which is why there are always floral tributes. The kitesurfers wander and run across the road to their cars; tourists pull up with little warning or poodle along too slowly. There’s going to be an incident there.

 

 

Museum piece

More on museums. The Inca footwear museum controversy continues. The opposition Partido Popular at the town hall has denounced the extra costs of 800,000 euros for the museum. It says that it has been known for five years that extra funding would be needed and that the whole project has been a “botched job”. Meanwhile, the projected new Pollentia museum in Alcúdia is to be funded courtesy of money from the central government. The sub-director for state museums, and there is such an individual, has promised the consortium (the town hall and agencies of the Mallorca Council and regional government) that the money will be forthcoming under budgets for 2011. So, work is unlikely to start till then. The level of funding has not been disclosed but is believed to be in the region of three million euros.

 

And still on local project funding. Threequarters of a million euros have been forked out to create the park by La Gola in Puerto Pollensa. This has been a colossal waste of money. It should have been reserved only to keep the water clean and free of the stagnation it has been prone to; the rest, pointless. Doubly pointless as the park is not being maintained properly. It is full of dog shit and litter and benches have graffiti. One has the impression that officialdom has washed its hands of the whole thing; there hasn’t even been an official opening.