Something’s A Bit Fishy: La Gola

They were trawling dead fish out of La Gola again. Hundreds of young sea bass suffocated in the water of the canal, creating a fine old take-away for the seagulls which came from miles around to feast.

This is the small La Gola lagoon in Puerto Pollensa. Together with its accompanying park, it is referred to, by politicians who rush to make such environmentally righteous statements, as the green heartbeat of the resort. Or something like this. It’s tosh, whatever it is. I have previously used La Gola to denote an item of expenditure, one of questionable sense. “It’ll cost you a lagola, mate.” 800 grand, give or take the odd thousand; what it cost to do whatever it was they did. They being the collective of the town hall and regional government. (There is another cost quoted in respect of La Gola; one substantially greater – four million.)

To be fair, some parts of the park look reasonable enough. The problem has been, ever since it was officially opened and before this, keeping it in order. Out of order, it has been a haven for graffiti-ists, botellón-ists and all manner of other ists. Amidst the periodic disorder, they built a visitors’ centre. It’s not completely useless, as it does give information about bird and wildlife in other parts of the island, e.g. the Tramuntana mountains. But whether twitchers or others flock pilgrim-like in great numbers to it in order to avail themselves of its wisdom, I really couldn’t say.

It is the case, though, that La Gola and the wetlands of Albufereta and the now newly-reopened Can Cullerassa finca, a few kilometres along the coast, are important in attracting the keen birdwatcher. La Gola has recently been visited by an obscure heron, one that caused great excitement among the feathered-friend-fancying fraternity.

The appearance of the heron might be considered evidence of the green heartbeat actually beating. On the other hand, it might not be, and the sea bass would probably be inclined to agree that it wasn’t. The fish were fried, it would appear, because no one has got round to properly dredging the canal. Clogged up, sea water can’t get in adequately.

La Gola is something of a metaphor for what occurs elsewhere in Mallorca, one that relates to a division of responsibilities that the relevant bodies seem either unaware of or unable or unwilling to do anything about.

Pollensa town hall, the usual suspect when anything goes wrong in Puerto Pollensa, will doubtless get it in the neck over the sea bass and for the general upkeep of the pond, but, for once, it isn’t the town hall’s fault. The water, indeed the whole park, come under the auspices of the regional government’s environment ministry. The town hall is meant to keep the park up to scratch, which is a sore point among the locals, but as for the water: not its job.

Ultimately, it’s probably the responsibility of the national Costas authority, a division of the central environment ministry, but which devolves responsibility back to its Balearics wing. This, as with other regional Costas wings, devotes its energies primarily to knocking things down, such as buildings on beaches, rather than keeping things shipshape.

The division of responsibilities in the La Gola case should be clear enough, but the environment ministry is being charged, by locals in the port, with not giving sufficient priority to its maintenance or to removing sand that is dragged in from the sea. It could well be that, governmental coffers having been silted up, it has to give priorities elsewhere.

A lesson of La Gola is that they went in, like some invading force in Iraq, all environmental guns blazing but failed to consider the longer-term consequences, such as maintaining it once all the money had been spent or seeing the need for the sappers to be set to work re-trenching the canal. It may just have been bad luck. Money running out and all that.

Meanwhile, the division of responsibilities means that the town hall will be mistakenly considered the guilty party by many, while the real culprits are hiding away in a bunker in Palma.

Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

Mallorca’s Two Jags – Muro and the golf course

So much for confident statements. On 29 January I said that work on the golf course on the Son Bosc finca in Muro would start in two weeks. It hasn’t. Maybe it will do so next week. Despite the payment of the tax to the town hall, which was seemingly the final obstacle overcome, there are now further twists. Oddly enough, neither of them seem to have to do with the environmental pressure group GOB. One twist comes from the socialist opposition at the town hall. It says that the developers have not, as they should have, submitted to the town hall the modified plan for the course, one that takes account of changes to the development in order to preserve aspects of the flora and fauna, notably the rare orchid that grows there. This runs counter to the assertion by the mayor that everything was in order to allow the works to proceed.

The second twist has to do with changes at regional government level. Although it was being said that the work would start within those two weeks (meaning that it should have started already), there is now a suggestion that a decision to proceed next week is somehow being rushed. This has to do with a possible change of heart at regional government level. And why might this be? Never more than a short pitch and then a putt away from controversy, step forward the Unió Mallorquina. Or rather, step backward. The decision by President Antich to make the UM, as it were, miss the cut and smack it out of the coalition with a driver had ramifications at the environment ministry, the authority that had to give its final blessing to the project and which did so despite the allegation that it ignored a negative report by its own officials. The ministry was, until the UM’s dismissal, under the control of the UM and specifically Enviro Man, Miquel Grimalt. He was one of the ministers who lost his job as a consequence of the fracture within the coalition. The UM out of the way, Antich decided to merge the environment ministry with that for transport and planning, a ministry run by the PSM Mallorcan socialists (a member of the so-called Bloc) in the form of our old chum Biel Vicens, he who made the supposedly unsanctioned reclaim walk at the Ternelles finca in Pollensa and who was at loggerheads with Alcúdia’s former mayor over the siting of the railway.

In combining the ministries, Vicens has assumed a position and a series of responsibilities not far removed from those that John Prescott once had as part of his “super-ministry”. “Two Jags” Vicens we should maybe start calling him. Like Prezza once seemed all-powerful within New Labour, so Vicens has assumed significant power. He has said that he will look at ways of avoiding the golf course work going ahead and he is also on record as having voiced his objections to the course in the past; hence the apparent panic to get the bulldozers in smartish before he can stop them.

What this highlights is one of the faultlines of the coalition. The change in political colour at environment could mean the reversal of a previous decision, but this would not solely be because of competing environmental ideologies. It would also be a reflection of the battle between the PSM and the UM for the nationalist political soul of Mallorca, albeit one from opposite political positions on the left-right divide. Where the PSM sees something stamped with the UM name, it opposes – as with the Alcúdia train – and vice versa. Moreover, there is a possibility that work could indeed start at Son Bosc, only for Two Jags to wade in with an order telling them to down ‘dozers.

Just when you thought they’d finally come to an agreement, something crops up. Son Bosc and its golf course is the story of Mallorcan politics. This way, that way, and maybe something will happen. Or maybe it won’t.

Any comments to andrew@thealcudiaguide.com please.

Up, Up And Away

I am seriously considering a special blog devoted to Enviro Man. Here is part one:

“We only have five minutes to save the planet, Enviro Man.” 

“Then I will go and plant a tree and lay some stones.” 

See Enviro Man recuperate whole areas of wetland! Be amazed as he uses a spade to dig the earth for some new pines! Gasp as he cuts the tape and opens yet another new walkway across threatened dunes!

“Oh, Enviro Man, how can we possibly thank you?” 

“There is no need to thank me. It is all in a day’s work. But now I must fly, my organically powered jet packs lifting me across the natural environment of Mallorca, enabling me to see, with my recycled X-Ray Specs, villains in the act of natural desecration. Zap! Pow! Take that! Enviro Man will reclaim the land and protect it from greater harm.” “Up, up and away!!!”

“Who is the man in the green suit?” asked the people. 

“Enviro Man, people of Mallorca, is the environment minister,” answered the mayor of Pollensa. “Every moment of every day, he makes our environment better and safer for future generations. See this new stone before you. The first of the second phase of the walkway between Puerto Pollensa and Pollensa. This is the gift of Enviro Man, along with a whole great wedge of some 450,000 euros of government money. In only the last two weeks, he has single-handedly saved Albufereta and laid the inaugural stones of the car parking in La Gola and now, here, by the road to Pollensa town for this pavement. And on each occasion, I have had my photo taken with him. I can tell you that he is an Enviro Man among men, and a fellow member, along with myself, of the Unió Mallorquina.”

The people of Pollensa applauded and shouted their hurrahs, and watched as Enviro Man zoomed into the sky, looping and swooping and ready with his spade to plant yet more trees, with his scissors to cut more ribbons, with his … 

No, sod it, I’ve had enough of this.

 

Club de Producto náutico

How many organisations devoted to tourism promotion are needed to market an island? The answer is probably one, but that would be far too simple an answer. It’s more like 500, at a conservative guess. The town halls, the Council of Mallorca’s tourism promotion set-up and own department, the same at the regional government, the central government’s ministry and promotional outfit, numerous talking-shops of a general tourism nature and then some more specific bodies. Take, for instance, nautical tourism. This alone has a whole raft (sic) of different groups, associations and whatever – those for diving, for yacht hire, for the various yacht (or nautical, if you must) clubs. Then there are the ports authority, the chamber of commerce and its nautical wing, the yacht clubs themselves … the list goes on, a flotilla of different organisations bobbing on the water of let’s try and grab as much well-minted yachtie and boatie-type tourism that’s going. 

The tourism ministry has now gone and created something called the “Club de Producto náutico”. I think you can probably figure out what this means. This “Club”, which is not a physical club of course but an abstract one, comprises many of the above and many not even mentioned, one more being the “Estaciones Náuticas de Baleares”, of which Alcúdia is one. And no, I don’t know what’s happened to that either, despite the blaze of publicity earlier this year. 

I suppose if you can get all the groups and associations pulling and veering in the right direction, all going starboard rather than some going to port (or should that be the other way round?), then this may be a good idea, but one does wonder at the sheer number and what they actually all do. We can at least be reassured that the Club is part of the whole marketing plan being developed, apparently, by Ibatur, the regional government’s tourism marketing operation. One says reassured as quite how effective the “more than golf” etc message has been and quite how effective the money spent on the Nadal promotions will ever be, who can tell. 

I have an aversion to anything that monikers itself “Club” or “Team”. Both words are meaningless, bandied about as evidence of either prestige (Club) or of everyone sharing the same goals (Team) when neither is necessarily the case. They are marketing-speak, often a way of giving an impression of something positive being done, when in fact nothing much occurs. Still, maybe this particular Club will work, and it should, as Mallorca does have a lot going for it in terms of nautical tourism. If they could only ever agree on moorings and marina developments and …

 

John Hirst further

The “Dewsbury Reporter” confirms that Mr. Hirst worked for Allied Dunbar in the 1990s and no more. (Hirst was from Dewsbury and a “jovial Yorkshireman”, says the Reporter; I’m sure he was). Information about Mr. Hirst should be sent to the SFO.

Napoleon Did Surrender

Good God, he’s back again. Is there nowhere that does not provide a photo opportunity for Enviro Man? The latest jaunt? There amidst some scrubland in the S’Albufereta, along with the mayors of Alcúdia and Pollensa. Environment minister Grimalt sharing the camera lens with his mayoral compatriots in the Unió Mallorquina, all in the name of environmental recuperation. 

Albufereta, in case you don’t know, is the little Albufera to be found to the side of the coastal road between Alcúdia and Puerto Pollensa. Basically, it’s much the same as the Albufera of Playa de Muro except much smaller, without a reception centre and without anything remotely worth looking at. It is an area that has, apparently, been classified as a recuperation priority by the European Union. Over a hundred thousand euros have been earmarked for the first phase – that of getting rid of rubbish that has accumulated and re-establishing the water land area known as Can Cullerassa which takes its name, or is it the other way round, from the stretch of beach and which also lends its name to the restaurant, albeit that this is called Can Cuarassa – not sure how that works, but apparently it is so.

It was reassuring that the photo opp in the “Diario” did not show Enviro Man and his fellow camera fodder wearing masks. Back in March, it was revealed that there was a bit of a problem with E.coli in the water of Albufereta, something which led to a sign being covered with the word “contaminado”, which one assumed was not an official addition to the sign. 

 

In a quite different matter environmental, Enviro Man’s ministry, according to “The Bulletin”, is coming in for a bit of a bashing from the local Chamber of Commerce for refusing to grant permission for the island of Cabrera to be used as a location for a film with Al Pacino about Napoleon. This is in fact the long-awaited adaptation of the children’s book by Staton Rabin, “Betsy And The Emperor”, which will also feature Emma Watson, as Betsy. I say “long-awaited” only because the film has been talked about for at least four years.

Cabrera is the largest of the small archipelago off the southern coast of Mallorca, all of which is deemed to be a nature reserve, one to which there is little by way of excursion. The regular population of Cabrera is under 100, and the ecosystem is considered that fragile that diving is forbidden. But the argument goes that filming there would not have any harmful effect, which may possibly be true, while production teams are generally pretty assiduous when it comes to tidying up after themselves and are also not unknown for being quite generous in terms of paying for locations, a possible additional source of revenue, therefore, for promoting the island, one might have thought. Moreover, goes the argument, using Cabrera would be beneficial in showing off some excellent landscape and thus attracting further tourism. Which may also be true, but not for Cabrera as such, while cinema-goers would probably need to know that Napoleon was on an island off Mallorca and not on an island in the Atlantic, as the film will be about his exile in St. Helena. 

Maybe though the objection has to do with the fact that Enviro Man would not himself appear; for newspaper photographers read also film camera crews. But it might be possible for him to get a walk-on as an extra or something, planting a sign to the effect of “this scene sponsored by the Balearic Government’s environment ministry on the island of Cabrera near to Mallorca”. That might do the trick, so long as no-one comes along and adds “contaminado” to the sign.

The Costas’ Lots

The rumpus that has erupted regarding the new definition of limits under the demarcations of the law on the coasts (Ley de Costas – see previous 5 July: Saltbreakers) has all the makings of a major conflict between the Balearic Government and the hoteliers of Alcúdia and Muro. As soon as one was aware of these new definitions, it didn’t take much to realise where all this could lead – conflict yes and possibly also the courts. To sum it all up, these new definitions encompass the salt lands and what is private or public land and go beyond the previous application to the beaches and distances from the shore line. The Costas authority has not so much moved the goal posts as erected a whole new goal and a penalty area. As reported by “The Diario”, the directors-general of Iberostar (with five hotels in Playa de Muro and one in Puerto Alcúdia) and Grupotel are not happy, the former hoping that the director responsible for demarcation will respect the “tourism sensitivity”. 

 

There may be some special pleading emanating from the hoteliers, but who, frankly, can blame them? If developments, both existing and future, are to become confused by interpretations of law, where do these all leave what is the single most important sector of the local economy, one largely created by the hoteliers? The logic of these interpretations could be that hotels have to go. That is highly unlikely to happen, but there could be ramifications of different sorts, such as modifications and constraints on development or renovation. Why, though, is the Costas authority apparently determined to create an issue that will have an unclear conclusion and to cause a confrontation? The authority would argue, legitimately, that it is acting within its remit to protect the environment and to right any errors of the past and to prevent future building errors. Fair enough. But it also, surely, has a wider responsibility within the framework of the government to act in the best interests of the economy – locally and island-wide. Joined-up government? Probably not. 

 

One needs to also consider that there has recently been a relaxation in respect of allowing hotels to undertake certain new developments – a relaxation intended to help boost the ailing construction industry. There is also governmental finance on hand to assist with this. Which department agreed this relaxation? The tourism ministry, not the environment ministry of which the Costas authority forms a part. There is a further twist to all this. The environment ministry, via the so-called “Decreto Grimalt”, has established changes to procedures in respect of some construction (it is the same “decreto” that has caused the fuss about bar noise). Initially, this law was going to permit building in tourist areas during the summer. It was the vocal criticism of the hoteliers that brought about a retraction. While it seems that there are forces pulling against each other within government, one also wonders at the timing of the latest intervention by the Costas a month or so after the passing of this “decreto” minus its provisions for summer building work. It might also be noted that the president of the association representing the hotel chains, which was a powerful voice against the summer building, is also the director-general of Iberostar.

 

There are some powerful figures on the hotel side, not least the boss of Iberostar, a company it should be remembered that has enjoyed number one status as the most profitable of Mallorcan businesses. One might argue that big business needs to be confronted sometimes, but in this instance one detects a sense of jobsworthing taking on powerful business with no sensible outcome. All the more curious then when one realises that the director responsible for demarcation at the Costas is a former tourism minister.

 

On a different note, though there may be some question marks as to the precise legal interpretations of the status of the land on which hotels have been constructed, could anyone seriously argue that the hotels of Playa de Muro constitute something that is environmentally unsympathetic? For the most part, the hotel stock in Playa de Muro is of a superior standard to many resorts. Aesthetically, the hotels are generally appealing. Not all, but many: the Iberostars, Grupotel’s Parc Natural, the Palace de Muro, the Viva Blue, La Dorada, and so on. The far more important issue regarding the resort, and its hotels, is securing its future as a thriving tourism location. The Costas’ intervention is unwelcome. 

 

I have had some words in the past against the hotel lobby, not least in respect of all-inclusive offers and the pressure to limit holiday lets, but on this one I am in complete agreement with them. It is the hotels that have created the resorts’ and the island’s wealth, not a government authority which seems hell-bent on acting against that wealth.  

 

 

The SPCC and the Ashes

I should just mention that one of my correspondents has asked why the Sa Pobla Cricket Club, through my good offices, has not been given space to offer its thoughts on the Ashes. I can report that the SPCC is giving 15-8 on 2-1 in favour of … the Australians! But …

 

“And Fred is coming in on from the Fred (cold in Catalan) End … and he’s got Ricardo Ponting pierna delante de, er, wicket.”